Questions & answers
Davis, William C Jr
Ammunition For A Sauer Pistol
Q I have inherited a Sauer& Sohn 7.65 mm pistol in its original box. There was a parts list in the box for a Sauer Model 1913 pistol along with a label from a box of “Winchester. 32 Automatic Colt 7.65 m/m Browning Full Patch” ammunition. Can I fire this gun with modern ammunition? It is in like-new condition.
A There are several different names for the .32 ACP cartridge, and in Europe it is usually called the 7.65 Browning or simply 7.65; so .32 ACP ammunition is appropriate for your Sauer. Without being able to examine your gun, I cannot tell you whether or not it is safe to shoot. If you have any doubt, you should have it checked by a competent gunsmith. If the gunsmith says it is safe, then modern ammunition should be just fine.-CHARLES E. PETTY
Q I would appreciate any information you could give me on a military rifle caliber 6.5×55 mm Swedish. Marked on the receiver ring is: “Waffenfabrik Mauser Oberndorf A/N 1900.”It has a turned-down bolt handle, 29” barrel, and all parts are numbered 208. It has a scope with a quick remove mount. The scope has on it: “M/42 AGA 3×65 #610.” The front ring on the scope has lines numbered 1-8. The rear ring has lines marked “+111101111-.” The rifle has a brass plate on the stock, measuring about 1 “x 1 1/2”. It reads: “GM/96Sikte Sk Sutning Austano 50 100-250 300 350-400 450 500 550 600 For Trubbkulo Med Spetskulo Sikteirp 3001-2 3001-3 3001-2 300/0 400/-3 400/0 4001+3 500/-5.”
A You have a Swedish Model 1896 Infantry Rifle that was made on the original contract by the Mauser Werke in Oberndorf, Germany, in 1900. During World War II when the Swedes were neutral, they converted it into a sniper rifle from a standard Gevar (rifle) that was selected for accuracy and then modified by turning down the originally straight bolt handle and adding the m/42 AGA 3.64 telescopic sight in its removable mount. Since blank rounds were not allowed to be fired from the sniper rifle, the muzzle was not threaded for a blank-firing attachment as were other Model 96 infantry rifles.
When Germany stopped supplying scopes and mounts during World War II, the Swedish company, Svenska Akkumulatoraktiebolaget Junger, developed the m/42 AGA telescopic sight for Swedish sniper rifles. It was 22.7 cm (8.93″) long with a tube diameter of 2.22 cm (0.870″) and had a 26 mm (1″) objective lens. It delivered 3X magnification with elevation adjusted by turning the front ring. This is calibrated from 1 through 9 in hundred– meter intervals for the Swedish m/41 spitzer bullet cartridge. The rear ring adjusted the focus for the eyesight of the shooter from +3 to -3 diopters. The brass adjusting rings were originally blackened, but most have since become brass-colored.-ANGUS LAIDLAW
Original or Rebuilt Garand?
Q My M1 Garand has all its parts manufactured by Springfield Armory. The receiver serial No. is 4,386,XXX, which means that it should have been manufactured between 1952 and 1954. Indeed, the barrel date reads “11-53,” which means that it could possibly be original. However, there are various numbers on each part that don’t match each other, despite the fact that they are all Springfield parts. I was told that these are not serial numbers. There is also a light cartouche on the stock with a “P”in a circle. On the barrel there are also two “Ps” engraved into the metal. Is there any way to know if my M1 is original or rebuilt?
A There are many factors that determine whether or not an M1 rifle remains in its original factory configuration or has been rebuilt and/or restored. The barrel on your rifle is very possibly original to the receiver. The numbers on the parts you mentioned are not serial numbers but are “drawing numbers.” Each part has a specific drawing number to identify it. The only serial number
found on an M1 rifle is on the receiver. As originally manufactured, your rifle would
have had all Springfield parts, most with a “65” prefix to the drawing number.
The original cartouche was the “Defense Acceptance Stamp,” which consists of a “spread eagle” clutching arrows over three stars enclosed in a rectangle. If your Garand has the correct stock and the proper post-World War II Springfield Armory parts with the appropriate drawing numbers, it could be an original (not rebuilt rifle). Post-World War II M1 Garand rifles such as yours are found in their original configuration much more often than are the World War II (and earlier) M1 rifles. These earlier rifles were in the “system” much longer, and saw much harder use than the 1950s-vintage rifles, thus have greater odds of having undergone one or more arsenal overhauls.-BRUCE N. CANFIELD
S&W.38 Double Action
Q I recently purchased a Smith & Wesson revolver dated “May 11 & 25, 1880.” It is a five-shot revolver with an automatic extractor and 3 1/4″ barrel. I would rate it in good shape. The revolver breaks open at the top, and the cylinder does not tip out. On top of the barrel is printed
that it was patented on “January 17 & 24, 1886.” Could you please tell me more about this revolver?
A Your revolver is a Smith & Wesson .38 Double Action. That model was introduced in 1880 and manufactured through 1911, with more than 500,000 produced. Collectors recognize five different variations of the model. By serial number, yours is probably an S&W .38 DA, Second Model, produced in the early 1880s, which was chambered for the .38 S&W cartridge. However, in the 1880s, they were made for blackpowder-loaded cartridges, and so should not be fired with modern smokeless-powder ammunition.-JIM SUPICA
Removing Rust From Collectable Colt
Q I own a Colt Single Action revolver. The gun was left to rust before I owned it. I would like some information on it, and if you had some suggestions on how I could remove the rust.
The top of the barrel is stamped “COLT P.T. F.A. MFG CO HARTFORD CT. USA.”The left side of the barrel has in raised letters “COLT” and some letters which could be “FRONTIER” or something like that, and some other letters that I cannot make out. The bottom of the barrel is stamped “#8XXX” and “44.” The left side of the cylinder frame is stamped “PAT SEPT 19 1871; PAT JULY 2 1872; PAT. JAN 19 1875.” The bottom of the frame is stamped “98XXX” and “60 04.” The trigger frame is stamped “98XXX.” The grip frame is stamped “98XXX.” The cylinder gate is stamped “60 04.”The grip panels are black and have a bucking horse at the top and an eagle with a shield and an “E. PLURIBUS UNUM” ribbon in its beak. One claw holds wheat and the other arrows.
A Your Colt Single Action Army was likely made in 1883. The markings on the left side of the barrel are probably, “COLT FRONTIER SIXSHOOTER” and, if so,
would indicate that your gun was originally manufactured as a .44 WCF-cal. (.44-40) revolver, for the early blackpowder loading of this cartridge. Any Colt SAA of that vintage should have collector interest, and one is much more likely to damage the value of a collectible old Colt by over-cleaning and restoration attempts than by benign neglect. I would suggest that you only attempt to stop any active rust, and make no efforts to clean the gun to bright or to have it refinished.
Most collectors would much prefer to have a patina gun instead of one that has been polished or refinished.You want to be careful not to remove any original finish, and to protect finish that has turned to brown or plum color “patina.”
You do not want to polish any bright spots that contrast with the gun’s remaining finish or patina. The best way to do that is by very gentle rubbing with bronze wool and a natural gun oil until the loose rust has been removed. A more aggressive approach would be to carefully use very fine 0000 steel wool and WD-40, being careful not to over-clean. It would be best not to get any of the solvent on the hard rubber stocks. Once the active rust has been removed, the best protective coating for a collectible gun is one of the microcrystalline waxes. Brand names include Renaissance Wax and Curators Choice. Those can be used safely on both metal and wood and provide better and longer protection than oils and greases.-JIM SUPICA
Bullet Lube And Corrosive Primers
Q I would think that the use of lubricated lead bullets would retard the effects of corrosive primers some, but how much? I have never read of or heard it discussed.
A Lubricated lead bullets do not retard the corrosive effects of corrosive primers. They often made the corrosion problem worse because the corrosive primer salts would be left in contact with the barrel metal, held in place by the layer of lubrication. That is why the best system for removing corrosive primer fouling is still soap or detergent and hot water. First, scrub the barrel with a wire brush wet with that solution. The water dissolves the corrosive salts and washes them away after removing the lubricant. Pouring boiling water through the bore both washes out the final traces of salts and the heat dries the bore, which can then be protected with a good gun oil. Be sure you inspect the bore after a few days to see that there is no trace of rust.-ANGUS LAIDLAW
Copyright National Rifle Association of America Sep 2002
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