Time warp: Kyosho double dare
The year was 1989. George Bush (no “WI) was elected president, the Berlin Wall was taken down, and the San Francisco 49ers won the Super Bowl. Not that I really cared about any of that at the time; I was 14 years old, and Kyosho’s new Double Dare monster truck was the only thing that interested me. Kyosho designed the Double Dare to compete with the Tamiya Clod Buster, and like the all-powerful (at the time) Clod, the “DD” had dual motors and 4-wheel steering. But other than those similarities, the DD was uniquely Kyosho in its design. See for yourself.
ENCLOSED TUB CHASSIS
A large plastic tub is the backbone of the Double Dare. The front and rear gearboxes are attached to the chassis with four screws each. Lower chrome chassis braces stiffen up the entire assembly. The battery is mounted sideways on the chassis’ center for easy Installation and removal. The steering servo, throttle servo, speed control and receiver are screwed to the inside of the tub, and a large plastic cap protects them.
THEN Whatever. Put the body on!
NOW The DD chassis Is actually pretty cool. I like that it’s enclosed; the electronic gear is protected, and the truck Is easy to clean.
A fully independent front and rear suspension is found at the front and rear of the truck. The upper and lower suspension arms pivot on large pivot balls that are attached to the steering knuckles; camber is not adjustable. Two plastic shocks control the suspension arms; only one of them has an Internal spring. Since the shocks have internal springs that are Impossible to get at, you cannot adjust the ride height. The tops of the shocks are mounted on plastic, non-adjustable shock towers, and the bottoms of the shocks are mounted on the upper suspension links.
THEN Eight shocks!
NOW Eight non-adjustable friction shocks, ugh. I’ll take oil-filled dampers, please!
The Double Dare has 4-wheel steering and uses one servo to turn the front and rear wheels. Two racks with pivot balls attached to them slide side to side in the front and rear of the chassis, and they are connected to the steering knuckles with non-adjustable rods. A pin attached to the servo-saver slides into a groove in the rack and pushes it from side to side. A hardened-steel, U-shaped rod connects the rear steering rack to the front rack.
THEN Wow! All four wheels steer!
NOW Wow! All four wheels steer … barely.
HEAVY-DUTY MECHANICAL SPEED CONTROL
Two motors pull a lot of amperage through a speed control so Kyosho Included a newly designed heavy duty mechanical speed control that was made specifically made for the Double Dare. It is operated by a single servo and features 3-step forward and reverse. A see-through plastic cover protects the speed control and servo.
THEN Mechanical speed control? That must be the best kind!
NOW I’ll just buy an ESC.
DETAILED NISSAN BODY
A clear Lexan Nissan Pathfinder body covers the Double Dare chassis. Most Lexan bodies are mildly detailed with window moldings and grill details; that wasn’t good enough for the folks at Kyosho. They also threw plastic detail pieces into the mix such as a light bar, front and rear bumpers and a detailed chrome engine (complete with wiremesh velocity stack covers) that sticks out of the hood.
NOW I still think the DD body set Is pretty awesome, but I missed having window masks. Overspray film was Included, though. I wish I could got that dummy engine as a replacement part! I’ll check on eBay-that’s where I bought the truck.
CHROME WHEELS AND CHEVRON/LUG TIRES
The Double Dare rides on huge 5.7×2.9-inch “Terra” tires. They come out of the box already mounted on the stylish, chrome-plated 12-spoke rims.
THEN Those chrome wheels look killer, and the tires are huge!
NOW Those chrome wheels still look good, even In the era of polished real-aluminum T-Maxx rims. The DD tires are a bit narrow, though.
The Kyosho Double Dare uses independent front and rear gearboxes that are securely bolted to the tub chassis. The Included Le Mans 05 stock motors are mounted towards the outside of the truck, and thick plastic bumpers protect them. The motors are color-coded to help the builder remember which one goes in front (gold) and which one goes In the rear (silver). Slots in the gearboxes allow the final gear ratio to be changed. Two plastic covers included in the kit slide over the endbell of the motors to keep dust and dirt out of them and extend their life.
THEN Gosh, two motors, and they’re big 540s, not 380s. That thing must haul!
NOW Two 540s? It still isn’t enough. But as a Clod-contender, a pair of silver cans was a match for Tamiya’s big truck.
Pro-Line brake discs
Pro-Line helps you Traxxas Maxx owners add style and realism to your truck with no-mod disc-brake rotors. The metal rotors fit over special hex hubs (included) that sandwich the disc between the rim and the hub. They’re purely for looks, but if someone figured out a functional caliper system, I bet the Pro-Line discs would stop the truck in a hurry!
Maxx disc-brake rotors-6204-00, $24.99.
GPM aluminum receiver and battery cover
Just when you thought you couldn’t get enough aluminum parts for the Trams T-Maxx … GPM’s receiver and battery cover are constructed of multiple pieces of aluminum plate that are held together by small screws. For the everythingmust-be-aluminum diehard, these parts are musts.
Alloy receiver box-TMX1525, $33.
Alloy battery box-TMX1526,$38.
I have a Traxxas T-Maxx with Parma offset hexes installed to improve my truck’s handling. After a few minutes of running the truck, the wheel nuts loosen up, and I sometimes even lose a wheel. What is causing this?
When you install the offsets, this moves the wheels out farther on the axle giving you less threads to tighten the nut onto. The nuts that hold on the wheels have a small nylon insert at the end of them to prevent them from loosening. If you are able to tighten the nuts enough, the threads will be in contact with the nylon insert, but only a little of the threads will be touching the insert. If you have new nuts, they may not fall off; but if you are using worn nuts, the insert will not have enough of a grip on the axle threads, and they will loosen up. Add a little thread-locking compound to the threads before you install the wheel nuts. That should keep them in place.
If you have any problems or questions about trucks. or if there is something you would like to see in “4×4,” email me at
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