30 W. 26th St.; (212) 255-4544; www.hillcountryny.com. Seats: 250. Cuisine: barbecue. Specialties: smoked sausage with jalapeno cheese; dry-rubbed and barbecued spareribs, boneless prime rib and brisket–moist or lean. Main courses: $12-$25. Executive chef: Elizabeth Karmell. Pit master: Robbie Richter. Owner: Marc Glosserman.
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