A good egg: Tomes offer recipes that are sure to go over easy

A good egg: Tomes offer recipes that are sure to go over easy

Michael Schrader

THE GOOD EGG, Marie Simmons, 466 pages, Boston: Houghton Mifflin, $27.

Simmons, who writes columns for Bon Appetit magazine and the Los Angeles Times, won both the Julia Child and James Beard awards for her previous effort, “Lighter, Quicker, Better.” “The Good Egg” is her 14th cookbook.

She tells us that because of the egg phobia that gripped America for the past few decades, many people don’t know how to prepare eggs properly. So she explains how to bake and poach them, stuff them, scramble and fry them, providing fresh approaches from soup to dessert.

The possibilities are myriad, as this cookbook proves with its 235 recipes arranged as scrambling and frying, making omelets and frittatas, baking and poaching, pairing eggs with bread, stuffing them, using them in broths and stews, making sauces and more. An infectious enthusiasm permeates the pages, inviting us to go on an egg binge.

Simmons shows that the egg is revered all over the world, and she includes the recipes she feels are most memorable. They include Hangtown Fry, the author’s husband’s version of an oyster-and-egg dish that dates back to the California Gold Rush; Italian stuffed eggs with parsley and olive oil; and avgolemono soup, a Greek version of chicken broth thickened with eggs.

Her comprehensive cookbook will ensure that you are not walking on eggs if you decide to add some to your next menu.

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